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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.